bagan overview

UPDATE: Sadly, due to civil unrest and armed conflict many countries have issued Do Not Travel warnings for Burma (Myanmar). Be sure to check with your state agency for travel advisory updates before considering travel to Bagan.

Bagan is one of the greatest architectural sites in Southeast Asia. Imagine ancient ruins similar to Cambodia’s Angkor Wat or Peru’s Machu Picchu. Between the 11th and 13th centuries, over 10,000 Buddhist temples were built in Bagan.

Of the 10,000 monuments once standing only 2,200 remain today. Further, the remaining temples are in various states of repair. Bagan’s tourist infrastructure is still in its infancy which means spotty wifi and limited dining and hotel options. Nevertheless, it is filled with friendly, English-speaking locals, and it offers a rare opportunity to experience one of history’s great architectural achievements without all the formality or crowds found at other major sites.

How to Navigate Bagan: Bagan is divided up into three towns that form a lowercase ‘r’ along the southern bank of the Ayeyarwady River – New Bagan, Old Bagan, and Nyaung-U. Bagan-Chauk Road (North to South) and Anawrahta Road (East to West) are the two main roads in town. Most temples are easily reachable by dirt trails leading from these main roads. This arrangement makes Bagan a surprisingly easy town to navigate.

The most notable temples can be seen in a few days. Additionally, some of our favorite temples were ones we stumbled upon while just exploring.  We highlight each of these below in the Attractions section of our Bagan travel guide. Here are a few basics that will help you make the most out of your time in Bagan:

  • Maximize your sunrises and sunsets – Bagan is flat so sunrise and sunset make for unspeakable beauty. The weather is also cooler and the sunlight is better for taking pictures at these times.
  • Renting an e-bike is the best way to get around town – The main streets are wide and usually have little traffic, however, many of the temples are reached by narrow sandy trails, making an e-bike more ideal than a normal bicycle. If you are short on time, hiring a private car is also a good option.
  • Start by purchasing your ticket – Entrance to Ancient Bagan and all its temples is included in a multi-day ticket that can be purchased at a number of the larger temples.
  • Nyaung-U is the commercial center – We were very happy staying in Nyaung-U, which has the greatest variety of lodging and food options, despite being further from the major temples. Bagan is a small town as is, so staying outside of the commercial center will mean very limited food, lodging, and entertainment options.

bagan fast facts

Before You Go
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Time Zone: UTC/GMT +6:30
English Proficiency: Moderate
Plug / Socket Type: C, D, F and G – 230V / 50Hz; here is the top-rated travel adapter
Tourist Visa: All non-Southeast Asian passport holders are required to obtain an e-visa prior to arrival
Health Care: Tourists are not required to have proof of insurance, but most opt for private travel insurance
When You Arrive
Exchange Rate: $1 (USD) = ~2,000 Myanmar Kyat (MMK)
Tipping: Not customary
Transportation: E-bikes can be rented for ~$5 per day. Taxis can be arranged for $15+ per day
Drinking Water: NOT declared safe for drinking; here is our preferred travel water filter
Driving: Right side of the street
Best Rental Car Agency: Comfort Car Rental

Best time To Visit bagan

October to March is the best time to visit Bagan. It offers the best weather and visitors can see or ride in hot air balloons (October to April). That also means there are more tourists than at other times of the year. We recommend visiting in either October or March to enjoy the good weather and thinner crowds. Between April to June, temperatures can reach as high as 110°F (43°C), but there are almost no other tourists around and hotels are at their cheapest rates.  July to September is considered the rainy season and visitors should expect rain daily.

Where to Stay in bagan

AREABEST FORLANDMARKSNATUREDININGPRICINGTOP HOTEL LINKS
Nyaung-UFirst-Timers★★★☆★★☆☆★★★☆$$Heritage Bagan Hotel
Old BaganSightseeing★★★★★★★☆★★☆☆$$Hotel @ Tharabar Gate
New BaganBudget★★★☆
★★☆☆★★☆☆$Ruby True Hotel

bagan Attractions

Shwesendaw Pagoda – is one of the best temples to visit at sunrise. At over 300 feet high, it is one of the tallest in Bagan and the most popular. It is a white-painted structure consisting of a bell-shaped stupa set on a base of five square receding terraces. Narrow, steep flights of steps on all four sides lead to the base of the stupa, from where visitors have amazing views of Bagan’s landscape.
Low Ka Oushang – is a smaller temple off the main path and a great alternative, or follow-up stop, to the busy Shwesendaw. If you show up at 5:00 am, you may find the entrance locked. The key holder lives in a hut just behind the temple and can help you get upstairs.

Dhammayangyi Temple – is the largest of all temples in Bagan. Additionally, it is considered to have the finest brickwork. The structure consists of a massive square topped by six receding terraces, giving it the look of an Egyptian step pyramid.

Sulamani Temple – was built in 1183 and was considered to be the crown jewel of Bagan. The temple features two stories standing on broad terraces creating a pyramid effect. A high wall, fitted with elaborate gateways, encloses the entire complex. Sulamani has some of Bagan’s finest ornamental work and is still in good condition. Stairways lead very close to the top of this temple, from where the views are incredible.

Shwe Nan Yin Taw Monastic Complex – is a charming collection of temples and pagodas removed from the noise of the main road. During the off-season, you will have the place entirely to yourself.

Seinnyet Nyima and Seinnyet Ama – were believed to be constructed by the Seinnyet Queen in the 11th century. Seinnyet Nyima is a solid stupa resting on three terraces and the bell-shaped dome is decorated with molded bands and pendants. Seinnyet Ama is a square temple with four entrances attached to projecting porches. The original artwork on the ceiling, walls, and entrance arches are still notably visible.

South Guni / North Guni – are located just behind Dhammayangyi and are often completely empty during peak hours. For those willing to navigate the temples’ narrow passageways, some of the best views of Bagan at sunset await.

Bulethi – is a smaller temple that usually has smaller sunrise crowds. The steps to the top are steep and narrow, but it is a brilliant place to watch the sunrise. If you happen to visit during hot air balloon season, then you are likely to have several soaring directly above you.

Thatbinnyu – is a magnificent white temple that towers 200 feet high, making it one of the highest monuments of Bagan. The temple was recently damaged in an earthquake and thus the terraces are closed to the public to prevent further erosion to the structure.

Shwegu Gyi Phaya – is a double-storied monument located in front of the Royal Palace. It was built by King Alaungsithu in 1140 A.D. and there are four Buddha images seated around the sides of the central block in the cellar.

Htilominlo – is 150 feet high and plastered with intricately carved depictions of mythological animals. According to legend, Htilominlo was chosen to be the next King out of the five sons of King Narapatisithu. The five sons stood in a circle with a white umbrella in the center. When the umbrella would tilt and point toward one of the sons, that son was to be the next King. The umbrella pointed towards Htilominlo and the pagoda was built on that very spot.

Oak Kyaung Gyi – is accessible by a series of narrow dirt trails from Anawrahta Road. Inside the temple there is a very narrow stairwell that leads to the second floor, then another set of stairs that leads to the roof.

Ananda – is well known for its beautiful architecture, glazed terracotta plaques, and spacious grounds. It was donated by King Kyanzitthar in 1091 A.D. and is one of the most treasured temples in Bagan.

Kyan Ma Ba – is a small pagoda across the road from Gawdawpalin. The pagoda itself is not much to speak of, but you can climb to the roof and have a clear unobstructed view of Gawdawpalin and surrounding temples.

Shwe Leik Too – is famous for sunrise photo shoots over Old Bagan but consider visiting this temple for sunset because the views are equally amazing and the tourists are few. The temple has several levels and the higher you go, the better the view of the horizon becomes.

Shwezigon Pagoda – is one of the oldest and most impressive monuments in Bagan. All four sides of the pagoda have a central stairway leading to the top.  After dark the pagoda is illuminated by spotlights that give the place a mystical atmosphere.

bottom line

Bagan is a place for exploring and you will want plenty of time to roam and discover your own favorite temples, in addition to those found in this Bagan travel guide. The town is best seen from a hot air balloon in October to April or from atop a temple when balloons fill the horizon at sunrise. This is particularly true now that Bagan is closing many of its temples for preservation purposes. Make the most of the sunrises and sunsets, leaving the afternoons for relaxation and keeping cool.

Have Questions About Bagan?

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ABOUT US

We left our office jobs in 2016 and have been living as PROFESSIONAL DIGITAL NOMADS ever since. We spend roughly half of the year traveling while we continue to learn and grow professionally.

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miandnash@gmail.com

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